The question comes up in almost every bespoke enquiry. Akoya or freshwater? The short answer is that neither is better. They are different in specific ways, and the right choice depends on what you want the piece to do. Here is a plain account of how each type is grown and what that produces.

How Akoya pearls are grown

Akoya pearls are saltwater pearls, grown in Pinctada fucata oysters in the coastal waters of Japan, primarily in Mie, Ehime, and Nagasaki prefectures. A small bead nucleus is inserted into the oyster, which then deposits nacre around it over twelve to eighteen months. The nacre layer is relatively thin, typically 0.3 to 0.5mm, but it is very dense and uniform. This produces the sharp, mirror-like lustre that Akoya pearls are known for.

How freshwater pearls are grown

Freshwater pearls are grown in mussels, primarily in lakes and rivers in Zhejiang and Anhui provinces in China. Unlike Akoya pearls, most freshwater pearls are nucleated with a small piece of mantle tissue rather than a bead. The mussel deposits nacre around this tissue nucleus, and the resulting pearl is often entirely nacre, with no bead at the centre. This makes freshwater pearls more durable in some respects, and it produces a wider range of shapes and overtones.

Lustre and overtone

Akoya pearls tend to have a sharper, more reflective surface. You can often see a clear reflection of a light source in a good Akoya pearl. Freshwater pearls have a softer, more diffuse lustre, sometimes described as satiny. Overtones vary: Akoya pearls often show a rose or green overtone; freshwater pearls can show rose, lavender, cream, or green, depending on the mussel and the growing conditions that season.

Shape and size

Akoya pearls are almost always round, which is part of their appeal for classic strands. Freshwater pearls come in a much wider range of shapes: round, near-round, button, baroque, and keshi. In terms of size, Akoya pearls typically range from 6mm to 9mm. Freshwater pearls can be found from 4mm up to 14mm or larger, though very large round freshwater pearls are rare and expensive.

Which to choose

For a classic strand or drop earrings where roundness and a sharp lustre matter, Akoya is usually the right choice. For a solitaire ring, a pendant, or a piece where shape variation is part of the design, freshwater pearls offer more options. Budget is also a factor: freshwater pearls of good quality are generally less expensive than comparable Akoya pearls, which makes them a reasonable choice for everyday pieces that will see heavy wear.

If you are still not sure which type suits your piece, send us a note at hello@drimanopearl.com. We are happy to talk through the options without any obligation to proceed.