Pearls are not fragile, but they are different from other gemstones. They are organic, porous, and sensitive to a narrow range of things that most people do not think about. The good news is that caring for them well is not complicated. It is mostly a matter of order: what you put on before the pearls go on, and what you do when you take them off.

Put pearls on last

Perfume, hairspray, and most skin creams contain acids or alcohols that dull nacre over time. The effect is gradual and cumulative. The rule is simple: pearls go on after everything else. When you take them off, they come off first. This one habit extends the life of the nacre significantly. It applies to all pearl types, including Akoya and freshwater.

Wipe after wearing

Skin oils and sweat are mildly acidic. After wearing, wipe the pearls with a soft, dry cloth before putting them away. A piece of clean cotton flannel works well. Do not use jewellery cleaning cloths that contain polishing compounds; these are designed for metal and will scratch nacre. A damp cloth is fine for heavier residue, but dry the pearls before storing them.

Store flat, not hanging

Hanging a pearl strand puts constant tension on the silk cord at the clasp end. Over time this weakens the cord unevenly. Store strands flat in a soft pouch or a lined box. Keep pearls away from other jewellery: diamonds and hard gemstones scratch nacre easily. A separate compartment or a small linen pouch is sufficient.

When to restring

Silk cord stretches with wear and absorbs oils and moisture. A strand worn regularly should be restrung every two to three years. Signs that it is time: visible gaps between the knots, a cord that looks grey or limp, or a clasp that no longer closes cleanly. Restringing is not expensive and it is far better than losing a pearl because the cord breaks.

What to avoid

Ultrasonic cleaners damage nacre. Steam cleaners damage nacre. Bleach and ammonia-based cleaners damage nacre. Do not wear pearls in a swimming pool or hot tub. Chlorine is particularly harmful. If a pearl gets wet in rain or seawater, wipe it dry as soon as possible. None of this requires special equipment. It just requires remembering that pearls are not quartz.

If your strand is due for restringing, or if you are not sure of its condition, you can send it to us at 14 Maltby Street, Bermondsey, London SE1 3PA. We will photograph it on arrival and send a condition report before any work begins.